The opportunity to snatch a glimpse of old Chóngqìng makes it worth riding out to this part of town, on the Jiālíng River west of the centre. Through the archway that is the entrance to the town, most of the buildings – many dating to the late Ming dynasty – have been restored, and the main drag can feel like a carnival, especially on weekends, but away from the central street, a living, working village remains.
You can easily lose yourself in its narrow lanes, peeking into homes and tiny storefronts. And there’s plenty to eat here, both in the alleys and overlooking the river. It’s also worth poking your head inside Bǎolún Sì , one of Cíqìkǒu’s only remaining temples. Its main building is more than 1000 years old. The alley the temple is on, Heng Jie (横街), is one of the most pleasant places to explore, and contains a string of cute cafes with wi-fi.