Hop on an eastbound tram, and past Fortress Hill you’ll turn into an old narrow street teeming with market stalls and old tenement buildings. This is the famous Chun Yeung Street Market, and at 5pm it’s so busy you wonder why no one ever got hit by the tram.
Flanking the tram tracks are vegetable stalls, meat vendors, and stores selling foodstuff from Fújiàn, such as pig intestines stuffed with egg and all kinds of meat balls. North Point has a huge Fujianese community, and you’ll hear their dialect spoken on Chun Yeung St.
As the tram turns the corner into King’s Rd, you’ll pass the nondescript Wah Fung Chinese Department Store . Once Hong Kong’s largest Chinese department store, its rooftop served as a hideout for underground communists during the 1967 riots.