Hepo Ri is the hill some 400m east of Samye, where Guru Rinpoche vanquished the demons of Tibet. King Trisong Detsen later established a palace here. Pilgrims honour it as one of the four sacred hills of Tibet (the others being Gangpo Ri at Tsetang, Chagpo Ri in Lhasa and Chuwo Ri at Chushul). Even for the non-religious, it’s worth coming up here for the views of Samye. Paths wind up the side of the hill from the road leading from Samye’s east gate. A 30-minute climb up the side ridge takes you to an incense burner, festooned with prayer flags and with great views of Samye below. Head south along the ridge and descend down the paved path. Early morning is the best time for photography.
