This obscure and little-visited Nyingmapa-sect temple is dedicated to the central red-faced deity Tseumar, as well as Pehar (a protector linked to Samye) and Tamdrin (Hayagriva). The crates of báijiǔ (rice wine) stacked in the corner are there to refill the silver cup in Tseumar’s hand; apparently he’s in a better mood if constantly plastered. The entire chapel smells like a distillery. Look for the wonderful old photo of the Dalai Lama’s pet elephant, stabled in the Lukhang behind the Potala.
The chapel is hidden in the backstreets west of the Shangbala Hotel and is hard to find; enter through the gateway marked by juniper and báijiǔ -sellers, just south of the Tsen Bar.
