While most of the town canals have been sealed and paved into roads, the pedestrianised Pingjiang Lu (平江路) offers clues to the Sūzhōu of yesteryear. On the eastern side of the city, this canal-side road has whitewashed local houses, many now converted to guesthouses, teahouses or trendy cafes selling overpriced beverages, sitting comfortably side-by-side. Duck down some of the side streets that jut out from the main path for a glimpse at slow-paced local life.
Along the main drag it's all rice wine, Tibetan trinkets, cigar sellers, fried potatoes, cake, dumplings and ice-cream vendors.