Down the Sutlej Valley, 2km past Khyunglung (曲龙; Qūlóng) village, is the extensive ruined cave city that archaeologists believe belonged to the early kingdom of Shangshung. A 20-minute trail to the site leads from a roadside chörten and drops past hot-spring terraces to cross the Sutlej over a bridge hung with severed animal heads. Spend a few hours exploring the troglodyte caves and buildings but be warned it’s dangerous to continue to the upper citadel.
