The Kordzo Pehar Ling was the home of the oracle Pehar until he moved to Nechung Monastery outside Lhasa. Pilgrims stick passport photos of themselves onto the locked entrance of the ground-floor chapel, which is flanked by two ancient-looking leather bags. The upstairs portico has some old cane helmets. The inner chapel reeks of alcohol, hooks hang from the ceiling and demons’ hands reach out from their cases, as if trying to grab you.