Tsim Sha Tsui’s only temple is a smoke-filled hole in the wall with a hot tin roof. Little is known about its ancestry except that it was built as a shrine in the Qing dynasty and renovated in 1900. Before WWII, worshippers of its Earth God were the coolies from Kowloon Wharf nearby, where the Ocean Terminal now stands. Today most incense offerers are octogenarians – the temple specialises in longevity.