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Barkhor Square
For your first visit to the Barkhor, enter from Barkhor Sq, a large plaza that was cleared in 1985. The square has been a focus for violent political protest on several occasions, notably in 1998 (when a Dutch tourist was shot in the shoulder) and most recently in 2008. The square
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Dài Temple
This magnificent Taoist temple complex is where all Tài’ān roads lead, being the traditional first stop on the pilgrimage route up Tài Shān. The grounds are an impressive example of Song-dynasty (960–1127) temple construction with features of an imperial palace, though other struct
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Nalendra Monastery
Ruins dwarf the rebuilding work at Nalendra Monastery but its still an impressive place. Founded in 1435 by the lama Rongtonpa (1367–1449), a contemporary of Tsongkhapa, it was largely destroyed in 1959. Where there were once 4000 monks, now only 100 remain. To get an idea of the o
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Dungkar & Piyang
Caves with extensive wall paintings were discovered at remote Dungkar (4250m; N 31°40.638’, E 079°49.471’) approximately 40km northeast of Zanda, during the early 1990s. At around 1100 years old, the cave paintings are possibly the oldest in Ngari and have much in common stylistica
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Nechung Monastery
Only 10 minutes’ walk downhill from Drepung Monastery, Nechung is worth a visit for its historical role as the seat of the Tibetan State Oracle until 1959. The Nechung oracle was the medium of Dorje Drakden, an aspect of Pehar, the Gelugpa protector of the Buddhist state, and the D
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Yǎān Bìfēngxiá Panda Base
Established in prime forest in Yǎān in 2003 for research purposes rather than tourism, the mission of the Yǎān Bìfēngxiá Panda Base expanded in the 2008, following the earthquake that severely damaged its sister reserve, Wòlóng . Bìfēngxiá is now home to 80 pandas, some of which ma
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Lukhang Temple
The Lukhang is a little-visited temple on a small island in a lake, behind the Potala in the pleasant Dzongyab Lukhang Park. The Lukhang is celebrated for its 2nd- and 3rd-floor murals, which date from the 18th century. Bring a torch (flashlight). The lake was created during the co
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Fǎmén Temple
This temple dating back to the 2nd century AD was built to house parts of a sacred finger bone of the Buddha, presented to China by India’s King Asoka. Although it may feel like a Cecil B DeMille Hollywood movie set, the older section is still worth a visit and you can join the que
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Nánjiēcūn
South of Zhèngzhōu, Nánjiēcūn is China’s very last Maoist collective (gōngshè) . There are no Buddhist temples or mist-wreathed mountain panoramas, but a trip to Nánjiē is nonetheless one back in time: a journey to the puritanical and revolutionary China of the 1950s, when Chairman
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Shongse Nunnery
Hikers and anyone who likes to get well off the beaten track will enjoy this excursion to Tibet’s largest nunnery, set in a large natural bowl about 55km south of Lhasa and home to over 160 nuns. The region is a favourite of bird-watchers. The newly paved road leads right up to the
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Qíyún Mountain
A 40-minute bus trip west of Túnxī brings you to the lush mountain panoramas of Qíyún Mountain. Long venerated by Taoists, the reddish sandstone rock provides a mountain home to the temples and the monks who tend to them, while mountain trails lead hikers through some stupendous sc
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Zhūjiājiǎo
Thirty kilometres west of Shànghǎi, Zhūjiājiǎo is easy to reach and charming – as long as your visit does not coincide with the arrival of phalanxes of tour buses.What survives of this historic canal town today is a charming tableau of Ming- and Qing-dynasty alleys, bridges and gǔz
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Bönri
Bönri (Běnrì Shénshān) is the Bön religion’s most sacred mountain, a sprawling massif where Bön founder Tonpa Shenrab fought and defeated his arch-rival Khyabpa Lagring. Bönpo pilgrims come from all over Tibet to circumambulate the mountain in an anticlockwise direction. Foreign tr
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Tomb of Emperor Jingdi
This tomb, which is also referred to as the Han Jing Mausoleum, Liu Qi Mausoleum and Yangling Mausoleum, is easily Xī’ān’s most underrated highlight. If you only have time for two sights, then it should be the Army of Terracotta Warriors and this impressive museum and tomb. Unlike
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Wǔtǎ Temple
Undergoing renovations at the time of writing, the distinctive Indian-styled Wǔtǎ Temple (Five Pagoda Temple) is a hugely rewarding place to visit. Thats not just because of its unusual architectural style – the temple is topped by its five attractive namesake pagodas – but also be
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Fēilái Sì
Approximately 10km southwest of Déqīn is the small but interesting Tibetan Fēilái Temple (Fēilái Sì), or Naka Zhashi (or Trashi) Gompa in Tibetan, devoted to the spirit of Kawa Karpo. There’s no charge but leave a donation. No photos are allowed inside the tiny hall. Everyone comes
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Confucius Temple & Imperial College
An incense stick’s toss away from the Lama Temple, China’s second-largest Confucian temple had a refit in recent years, but the almost otherworldly sense of detachment is seemingly impossible to shift. A mood of impassiveness reigns and the lack of worship reinforces a sensation th
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Běihǎi Park
Běihǎi Park, northwest of the Forbidden City , is largely occupied by the North Sea (běihǎi), a huge lake that freezes in winter and blooms with lotuses in summer. Old folk dance together outside temple halls and come twilight, young couples cuddle on benches. It’s a restful place
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Huángguǒshù Falls
Disgorging from endless buses, a friendly invasion of frenetic tourists from all over China come to see the 77.8m-tall, 81m-wide Huángguǒshù Falls, making this Guìzhōu’s number-one natural attraction. From May to October in particular, these falls really rock the local landscape wi
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Xīdì
Typical of the elegant Huīzhōu style, Xīdì’s 124 surviving buildings reflect the wealth and prestige of the prosperous merchants who settled here. Its Unesco World Heritage Site status means Xīdì, located 54km northwest of Túnxī, enjoys a lucrative tourist economy, yet it remains a
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