At the beginning of the 11th century, when Georgia was entering its cultural and political golden age, King Kvirike of Kakheti had a majestic cathedral built – at 50m tall, Alaverdi Cathedral remained the tallest church in Georgia for nearly a millennium. Situated 20km northwest of Telavi, its exterior is classically proportioned with majestic rounded arches but minimal decoration. Inside, the church has a beautiful spacious harmony, with light entering from 25 high slit windows.
Note the 16th-century St-George-and-dragon fresco over the west door. The Virgin and Child high in the apse is from the 11th century.
Also in the cathedral compound are the summer palace of Shah Abbas’ governor (now the bishop’s residence) and the Alaverdi Marani winery. The millennium-old winery, recently renovated, makes some of Georgia's best wines: it's not generally open to visitors but the cafe across the road sells bottles of traditionally made Alaverdi wine proudly bearing the slogan 'Since 1011', for a (by Georgian standards) whopping 75 GEL to 100 GEL.
The late-September religious-cum-grape-harvest festivities of Alaverdoba last several days, with people coming from remote mountain areas to worship, celebrate and enjoy the local wine.