About 4km south of Tmogvi village and 2km before Vardzia, a track heads 600m up from the road to this cave monastery that predated Vardzia by four centuries. It’s almost as intriguing as Vardzia itself and far less visited. A handful of monks have reoccupied the caves at the bottom left of the complex, after centuries of abandonment. You can climb up to the little white domed church, high up the cliff, by a series of wooden ladders inside the rock.