This sacred mountain, which rises dramatically from the plains, is covered with Jain and Hindu temples. Pilgrims from far and wide come to tackle the long climb up 10,000 stone steps to the summit, which is best begun at dawn. Be prepared to spend a full day if you want to reach the uppermost temples. Ascending in the early morning light is a magical experience, as pilgrims and porters begin to trudge up the well-maintained steps.
The Jain temples, a cluster of mosaic-decorated domes interspersed with elaborate stupas, are about two-thirds of the way up. The largest and oldest is the 12th-century Temple of Neminath , dedicated to the 22nd tirthankar: go through the first left-hand doorway after the first gate. Many temples are locked from around 11am to 3pm, but this one is open all day. The nearby triple Temple of Mallinath , dedicated to the ninth tirthankar, was erected in 1177 by two brothers. During festivals this temple is a sadhu magnet.
Further up are various Hindu temples. The first peak is topped by the Temple of Amba Mata , where newlyweds worship to ensure a happy marriage. Beyond here there is quite a lot of down as well as up to reach the other four peaks and further temples. The Temple of Gorakhnath is perched on Gujarat’s highest peak at 1117m. The steep peak Dattatraya is topped by a shrine to a three-faced incarnation of Vishnu. Atop the final outcrop, Kalika, is a shrine to the goddess Kali.
The trail begins 4km east of the city at Girnar Taleti . A motorable road, which may or may not be open, leads to about the 3000th step, which leaves you only 7000 to go! Refreshment stalls on the ascent sell chalk, so you can graffiti your name on the rocks. If you can’t face the walk, dholis carried by porters cost ₹3850 (round trip) if you weigh between 50kg and 70kg, and ₹4250 for heavier passengers. If your weight range isn’t obvious, you suffer the indignity of being weighed on a huge beam scale before setting off. Note that while photography is permitted on the trail, it’s not allowed inside the temples.
The Bhavnath Mela , over five days in the month of Magha, brings folk music and dancing and throngs of nagas (naked sadhus or spiritual men) to Bhavnath Mahadev Temple at Girnar Taleti. It marks the time when Shiva is believed to have danced his cosmic dance of destruction.
An autorickshaw from town to Girnar Taleti costs about ₹70.
