Hidden away in a tangle of bazaars selling rose petals, attars (perfumes) and offerings, the marble shrine of the Muslim Sufi saint, Nizam-ud-din Auliya, offers a window through the centuries, full of music and crowded with devotees. The ascetic Nizam-ud-din died in 1325 at the ripe old age of 92, and his mausoleum became a point of pilgrimage for Muslims from across the empire. Later kings and nobles wanted to be buried as close to Nizam-ud-din as possible, hence the number of nearby Mughal tombs.
Other tombs in the compound include the graves of Jahanara (daughter of Shah Jahan) and the renowned Urdu poet Amir Khusru. It’s one of Delhi’s most extraordinary pleasures to take a seat on the marble floor and listen to Sufis singing rousing qawwali (Islamic devotional singing) at sunset. These are most spectacular on Thursday, but it’s worth visiting on other evenings for a more intimate experience. Scattered around the surrounding alleyways are more tombs and a huge baoli (step-well). Entry is free, but visitors may be asked to make a donation.
A tour with the Hope Project , which ends at the shrine, is recommended for some background.
