Situated in the far southeastern corner of the Bhagwan Mahavir Wildlife Sanctuary, Goa’s most impressive waterfall splashes down just west of the border with Karnataka state, and at 603m this is the second highest in India after Jog Falls. The falls are best visited as soon after monsoon as possible (October is perfect), when the water levels are highest and the cascades earn their misty nomenclature, Dudhsagar, meaning, in Konkani, ‘Sea of Milk.’
Getting to the falls starts with a trip to the village of Colem, around 7km south of Molem, either by car or by the scenic 8.15am local train from Margao – the South Central Railway line actually crosses over the falls offering excellent views. Check return train times in advance, as they vary seasonally. From Colem, pick up a shared jeep (₹400 per person for six people) for the bumpy 45-minute journey, then it’s a quick clamber up over the rocks to reach the falls themselves.
The jeep takes you into the sanctuary, through a number of extremely scenic jungle and forest areas (there are three streams to be forded, which would make this trip tricky – though not impossible – by Enfield or other motorbike). En route, you’ll pass Devil’s Canyon , a beautiful gorge with a river running between the steep-sided rocks.
At the falls themselves swimming is possible (life jackets are provided for ₹50), but don’t picture yourself taking a romantic swim on your own – there will be plenty of other bathers joining in. You can also walk the distance to the head of the falls (though it’s unwise without a local to guide you), a real uphill slog, but affording beautiful views.
Goa Tourism runs one of its trademark whirlwind day trips, the ‘Dudhsagar Special’ (₹1200) to the waterfall, with stops at Old Goa, Ponda and lunch at Molem and Shri Mahadeva Temple at Tambdi Surla. Tours depart at 9am from Calangute, Mapusa, Panaji or Miramar on Wednesday and Sunday, departing 9am and returning 6pm. Private travel agents also offer tours.
It’s possibel to trek the 11km from Colem to the falls in around four hours, but organise a local guide in advance and start early.
