Devotees flock to Tirumala to see Venkateshwara, an avatar of Vishnu. ‘Ordinary darshan’ requires a wait of anywhere from two to eight hours in claustrophobic metal cages ringing the temple. Special-entry darshan tickets (₹300) will get you through the queue faster, though you’ll still have to brave the cages, which is part of the fun, kind of… Head to the Seeghra Darshan counters at Vaikuntam Queue Complex 1 for these tickets.
There are different hours for special-entry darshan each day: check the website. Upon entry, you’ll have to sign a form declaring your faith in Lord Venkateshwara.
Among the many powers attributed to Venkateshwara is the granting of any wish made before the idol at Tirumala. Legends about the hill itself and the surrounding area appear in the Puranas, and the temple’s history may date back 2000 years. The main temple is an atmospheric place, though you’ll be pressed between hundreds of devotees when you see it. Venkateshwara inspires bliss and love among his visitors from the back of the dark and magical inner sanctum; it smells of incense, resonates with chanting and may make you religious. You’ll have a moment to say a prayer and then you’ll be shoved out again. Don’t forget to collect your delicious ladoo from the counter: Tirumala ladoos (sweet balls made with chickpea flour, cardamom and dried fruits) are famous across India.
Many pilgrims donate their hair to the deity – in gratitude for a wish fulfilled, or to renounce ego – so hundreds of barbers attend to devotees. Tirumala and Tirupati are filled with tonsured men, women and children.
