Kolhapur’s atmospheric old town is built around the lively and colourful Mahalaxmi Temple dedicated to Amba Bai, or the Mother Goddess. The temple’s origins date back to AD 10, and it’s one of the most important Amba Bai temples in India. Non-Hindus are welcome. Nearby, past a foyer in the Old Palace, is Bhavani Mandap , dedicated to the goddess Bhavani.
Kolhapur is famed for the calibre of its wrestlers, and at the Motibag Thalim , a courtyard reached through a low doorway and passage beside the entrance to Bhavani Mandap (ask for directions), young athletes train in a muddy pit. You are free to walk in and watch, as long as you don’t mind the sight of sweaty, semi-naked men and the stench of urine emanating from the loos. Professional matches are held between June and December in the Kasbagh Maidan , a red-earth arena a short walk south of Motibag Thalim.
Shopaholics, meanwhile, can browse for the renowned Kolhapuri leather sandals, prized for their intricate needlework. Most designs are priced from ₹300 to ₹500. The break-in blisters on your feet come free.
