This crumbling 17th-century fort and palace, on the eastern bank of the Ganges, isn't worth coming out to if you only have a few days in Varanasi, but it is a beautiful place to watch the sun set over the river. It also houses an eccentric museum . There are vintage American cars, jewel-encrusted sedan chairs, a superb weaponry section and an extremely unusual astrological clock.
The current maharaja, Anant Narayan Singh – still known in these parts as the Maharaja of Benares despite such royal titles being officially abolished in 1971 – continues his family tradition of attending the annual month-long Ram Lila drama festival held in the streets behind the fort.
Boats operate a shuttle service across the river (₹20 return, 10 minutes) between 5am and 8pm, but from October to mid-June, you can also cross on a somewhat steady pontoon bridge or take the long way round on a rickshaw (₹200). A new bridge, under construction now for years, means most folks will just drive across – if it's ever finished. A boat all the way back to Dashashwamedh Ghat is ₹200.
