For nearly two centuries the area around Phears Lane was home to a predominantly Christian Chinese community, many of whom fled or were interned during a fit of anti-Chinese fervour during the 1962 war. These days ‘old’ Chinatown is pretty run down and predominantly Muslim, with destitute scavengers sifting through rubbish heaps around the once-grand 1924 Toong On Temple 'Church' . Very humbling.
Just after dawn, there’s a lively market scene on Tiretta’s Bazaar. It’s all closed by 10am, as is the archetypal old shop, Hap Hing where owner Stella Chen can tell you lots more about the Chinese community. Other historic shops nearby, albeit non-Chinese, include musical instrument makers Mondal and the fascinating 1948 gun shop ML Bhunja .
