The dark-red sandstone Pokaran Fort is an evocative place overlooking a tangle of narrow streets lined by balconied houses. Built between the 14th and 17th centuries, it once had charge of 108 villages. Part of it is now a heritage hotel. There’s a small museum with an assortment of weaponry, some brocaded clothes, old wooden printing blocks and various games belonging to former rulers of Pokaran, including dice and dominoes. There are also 15 ‘living’ temples or shrines, still attended by villagers, scattered around the fort, including a small shrine to Durga.