Varca, a seemingly endless palm-backed strip of sand (punctuated here and there by the grounds of a luxury resort or a whitewashed Christian shrine), is quiet, calm and almost entirely hawker-free, making it easy to find a quiet spot all to yourself. Outside the resorts, one good access point is the portion known as Zalor Beach; follow signposts from Varca village, near the church. ‘You are being watched, ’ declares a final sign when you arrive, ‘No spitting or abusing children.’
