Cavelossim village, a straggling strip of jewellery and souvenir shops with a strange proliferation of dentists, is a place of large, down-at-heel hotels and apartment complexes, strung along the main road. It’s here that browsers shop for sandals and sarongs, and the two-week brigade settle in to their plain back-from-the-beach abodes. For all that, though, the beach remains long, wide and beautiful, dotted with water-sports vendors and beach shacks, and a nice place for a paddle.