The biggest fish in the haveli pond is Patwa-ki-Haveli, which towers over a narrow lane, its intricate stonework like honey-coloured lace. Divided into five sections, it was built between 1800 and 1860 by five Jain brothers who made their fortunes in brocade and jewellery. It’s most impressive from the outside. The first of the five sections is open as the privately owned Kothari’s Patwa-ki-Haveli Museum , which richly evokes 19th-century life.