Walking to the timeless two-storey Gelukpa Sankar Gompa takes you between stone walls and attractive Ladakhi farmhouses following little streamlets and passing a pretty rural stupa. Sankar’s small, main prayer room features a portrait of Kushok Bakula Rinpoche (died 2004), Ladakh’s former Gelukpa head lama. His recently identified reincarnation will eventually move to the gilt-roofed photang (official residence) opposite the monastery.