Kolhapur is famed for the calibre of its Kushti wrestlers, and at the Motibag Thalim, young athletes train in an earthen pit. The akhara (training ground) is reached through a low doorway and passage beside the entrance to Bhavani Mandap (ask for directions). You are free to walk in and watch, as long as you don’t mind the sight of sweaty, semi-naked men and the stench of urine emanating from the loos.
