Little Shargol Gompa is built memorably into a cliff-face, and appears to float above the village. Inside its minuscule prayer chamber is lit by a single flickering butter lamp. To access from the NH1, cross the bridge at Km235.5, continue 1.6km to the baby power station and walk 10 minutes steeply uphill, climb a ladder then squeeze through the sole monk’s kitchen. If he’s in residence...