On the slopes of Gunung Batukau, Pura Luhur Batukau was the state temple when Tabanan was an independent kingdom. It has a seven-roofed meru dedicated to Maha Dewa, the mountain's guardian spirit, as well as shrines for Bratan, Buyan and Tamblingan lakes. This is certainly the most spiritual temple you can easily visit in Bali. Outside the compound, the temple is surrounded by forest, and the atmosphere is cool and misty; the chants of priests are backed by singing birds.
The main meru in the inner courtyard have little doors shielding small ceremonial items. Facing the temple, take a short walk around to the left to see a small white-water stream where the air resonates with tumbling water. Note the unusual fertility shrine. To the right of the temple entrance is a large, picturesque pond with steps leading to a temple in its centre.
There's a general lack of touts and other characters here – including large groups of tourists. Respect traditions and act appropriately while visiting temples. Sarongs are inclusive of entry fee.