One of the prettiest waterfalls we've seen in Indonesia is close to Soe. Look for a road going north off the main highway, drive 6km and turn east at a sign for 'Oehala'. After another 3km you'll find a parking area where a short walk brings you down to a series of white ribbons of tumbling water. The best section sees the water diffusing over huge boulders in a silvery sheen. It's popular with locals at weekends, deserted other times.