Kraton Kesepuhan is the oldest of Cirebon’s kraton . Built in 1527, its architectural style is a curious blend of Sundanese, Javanese, Islamic, Chinese and Dutch. Although this is the home of the sultan of Kesepuhan, part of the building is open to visitors. Inside is a pavilion with walls dotted with blue-and-white Delft tiles (many depicting biblical scenes), a marble floor and a ceiling hung with glittering French chandeliers.
The kraton museum has an interesting, if poorly displayed, collection of wayang puppets, kris, cannons, furniture, Portuguese armour and royal clothes. The pièce de résistance is the Kereta Singa Barong, a 16th-century gilded chariot with the trunk of an elephant (Hindu), the body and head of a dragon (Chinese-Buddhist), golden wings (Egyptian-Islamic) and the paws of a tiger. It was traditionally pulled by four white buffaloes and the suspension apparently flapped the wings and waggled the creature’s tongue. It is quite possibly the wildest carriage you’ll ever see.
Entry to the kraton includes a guided tour (payment at your discretion), which finishes in the kraton’s museum. Here there are spice boxes, French crystal and relics from Portugal and Holland. Look out for the Javanese-Hindu Kama Sutra woodcarving.
