Kota Gede, now an upmarket suburb of Yogyakarta, has been the hub of Yogya’s silver industry since the 1930s, but it was once the first capital of the Mataram kingdom, founded by Panembahan Senopati in 1582. Senopati is buried in the small graveyard of an old mosque located to the south of the town’s central market. You can visit the sacred tomb, but be sure to wear conservative dress when visiting.
Jl Kemasan, the main street leading into town from the north, is lined with busy silver workshops. Most of the shops have similar stock, including hand-beaten bowls, boxes, fine filigree and modern jewellery; they are closed on Sunday.
Kota Gede is about 5km southeast of Jl Malioboro. Catch bus 3A or 3B, take a becak (about 25,000Rp) or cycle there; it’s flat most of the way.