Semarapura's sprawling market is a vibrant hub of commerce and a meeting place for people of the region. You can easily spend an hour wandering about the warren of stalls on three levels. It's grimy, yes, but also endlessly fascinating. Huge straw baskets of lemons, limes, tomatoes and other produce are islands of colour amid the chaos. A plethora of locally made snacks are offered in profusion; try several.
Glittering jewellery stalls crowd up against shops selling nothing but plastic buckets. Look for ikat vendors selling authentic fabric for a third of what you'd pay elsewhere. On breezeways out the back, climb to the top for views of multicultural Semarapura, where mosque minarets crowd the sky along with Balinese temples. Mornings are the best time to visit.