At Iluwe, 1½ hours up a steep path from Jiwika, is Air Garam, a group of saltwater wells. Villagers soak sections of banana trunk in the water, then dry and burn them and use the resulting ashes as salt. Village boys will show you the way for around 30,000Rp, but to see the process at work, try to find a woman who will accompany you (50,000Rp). To avoid climbing in the midday heat, start from Jiwika before 10am.
