The major attraction in the small coastal town of Hiwasa is Yakuō-ji, Temple 23, and the last temple in Tokushima Prefecture. Yakuō-ji dates back to the year 726, and is famous as a yakuyoke no tera (a temple with special powers to ward off ill fortune during unlucky years). The unluckiest age for men is 42; for women, 33 is the one to watch out for. Kōbō Daishi is said to have visited in 815, the year of his own 42nd birthday.
The long set of stone steps leading up to the main temple building comes in two stages: 33 steps for the women, followed by another 42 for the men. The tradition is for pilgrims to put a coin on each step – when it's busy, you may find the steps practically overflowing with one-yen coins. Make your way to the pagoda at the top, and fork over ¥100 to view the basement gallery – to see the (figuratively) dark artwork of this underworld, you'll need to creep along the wall of a (literally) pitch-dark hall.
