The narrow streets of Shimo-Kitazawa (Shimokita to its friends) are barely passable by cars, meaning a streetscape like a dollhouse version of Tokyo. Although lacking big-name sights or landmarks, Shimokita has a lively street scene all afternoon and evening, especially on weekends.
There have long been plans to build a road through the centre of this neighbourhood, much to the dismay of local residents and business owners. In a city awash with skyscrapers and new developments, cosy, organic communities like Shimo-Kitazawa are a rare breed.
Restaurants, bars and entertainment venues are clustered on the south side; the more laid-back north side has many cafes and secondhand shops. This is one neighbourhood where getting lost is more than half the fun.
