Fukagawa Fudō-dō, which belongs to the esoteric Shingon sect, is very much an active temple. Fire rituals (called 'goma') take place daily in an auditorium in the Hondō (Main Hall), at 9am, 11am, 1pm, 3pm and 5pm, plus 7pm on festival days (1st, 15th, 28th of each month). Sutras are read, drums are pounded and various amulets and objects are passed over the flames in blessing.
There's also a trippy prayer corridor with 9500 miniature Fudōmyō (a fierce-looking representation of Buddha’s determination) crystal statues. Upstairs is a gallery depicting all 88 temples of the 1400km pilgrimage route on the island of Shikoku; it is said that offering a prayer at each alcove has the same effect as visiting each temple.