If Shinjuku is ever looking to the future, Nakano is a shrine to the recent past. Step out of the station’s north exit and you’ll see the Nakano Sun Mall (中野サンモール), a classic 1960s covered shopping arcade. It leads to Nakano Broadway (中野ブロードウェイ), another retro shopping complex. This one’s filled with small shops aimed at collectors of all sorts; many sell manga (Japanese comics) and vintage toys, but there are also those specialising in antique watches and darts. The original Mandarake is here, too.