This large, two-level market has a true flavour of Central Asia, and is worth putting on your itinerary even if you're not really food-shopping. Stalls are piled with nuts, fresh and dried fruit, smoked fish, spices, ready-made Korean salads, vegetables, medicinal herbs, cheeses, sausages and enormous hunks of fresh meat.
You can get kymyz (fermented horse milk), shubat (fermented camel milk) and freshly squeezed pomegranate juice here too – and cafes dotted around the place will serve a bowl of laghman (long, stout noodles) or plov (fried rice with vegetables and sometimes meat) with tea and bread for less than 600T.