In a striking 1908 wooden building (another work of cathedral architect Zenkov) at the east end of Panfilov Park, the city’s most original museum reopened in mid-2013 after a full revamp. As well as seeing and hearing its fine collection of traditional Kazakh instruments – wooden harps and horns, bagpipes, the lutelike two-stringed dombra and the violalike kobyz – there is now the chance to take classes in playing some of them.