A pod of rare Irrawaddy dolphins hangs out beneath the rapids in a wide pool known as Boong Pa Gooang, off the south tip of Don Khon. Boats are chartered (60,000K, maximum three people) for one-hour trips from the old French landing pier in Ban Hang Khon. Sightings are regular year-round, but the best viewing is from January to May. Try to go early evening or first thing in the morning, when sightings are more regular and the river is at its most scenic.
The Boong Pa Gooang pool lies mostly in Cambodia, which Lao boatmen are reluctant to enter (although kayak tour operators show no such reluctance). You may be able to see them from your boat (as we did), or you may be taken to a small island that looks over the conservation zone in Cambodian waters. Spotting these rare creatures in the wild is a highlight of any trip to Southern Laos. On your way back, you can tip the boatman to bring you over to Cambodia for a quick wander-around.
