Around 6km southeast of Muang Sing, That Xieng Tung is the famous stupa built by Muang Sing's founder dowager-queen in 1792. Shorter and less embellished than that at Wat Namkeo Luang, the octagonal layout is reminiscent of similar structures in Xishuangbanna, across the Chinese border. It's on a grassy plateau dotted with 'sacred trees', 1km up a very rough access track that branches south off the Luang Namtha road 200m after Km 52. This place really comes alive at festival time (full moon of the 12th lunar month, between late October and mid-November) when hordes of merit-makers offer candles, flowers and incense around the base of the stupa, monks from around the province gather to collect alms and traditional dance performances add to a general carnival atmosphere that spills over into town.