Hemmed in by agriculture and human habitation, this small reserve has forested hills rising dramatically from the surrounding plain. If getting into the Maliau Basin or Danum Valley feels like too much of an effort, consider Tawau Hills a user-friendly alternative. The forest here may not be as primevally awesome, but it's still impressively thick jungle, and the trails are quite easy on your feet. On a clear day the Tawau Hills Park's peaks make a fine sight.
The park was gazetteered in 1979 to protect the water catchment for settlements in the area, but not before most of the accessible rainforest had been logged. Much of the remaining forest clings to steep-sided ridges that rise to 1310m Gunung Magdalena.
The first trail leads along the Sungai Tawau (chattering with birds like a Disney movie when we attempted it) for 2.5km to Bukit Gelas Falls that, when not swarmed with school groups and tourists, is perfectly picturesque. Another track leads 3.2km to a group of 11 hot springs that are frankly as impressive as anything you'll see in Poring; locals believe the ubat kulit (skin medication) water has medicinal properties. Alternatively, you can always take a quick 30-minute walk to Bombalai Hill (530m) to the south – the views from here are also quite rewarding. Another reason for coming here is to see the world's tallest tropical tree (88m). From the main entrance take the 900m trail. As well as macaques, red- and white-leaf monkeys, giant tree squirrels, civet cats and six kinds of hornbill, you'll most likely come across leeches first. If it's been raining, you absolutely must wear leech socks!
There's accommodation at Tawau Hills Park . Rates are lower on weekdays. Both dorms and chalets are utilitarian, and there's not much reason to stay here unless you can't stomach a night somewhere else. If you want to camp, you'll need to bring all of your own equipment.
Tawau Hills is 28km northwest of Tawau. A taxi will cost around RM40.
