Imagine a massive crack in a mountain, a cathedral-like inner chamber shot with splinters of sunlight and swarming with cockroaches and scorpions, and you have the Gomantong Caves. Yes, the smell is disgusting thanks to the ubiquity of bat shit, but these caves are magnificent. The forested area around the caves conceals plenty of wildlife – we spotted, and met many other travellers, who saw orangutans here. The most accessible cave is Simud Hitam (Black Cave). Rotate counter-clockwise on the raised platform over a steaming soup of guano and roaches.
A 45-minute uphill trek beyond the park office leads to Simud Putih (White Cave), containing a greater abundance of prized white swiftlets nests. Both trails are steep and require some sweaty rock climbing.
The majority of visitors to Gomantong come as part of an add-on to their Kinabatangan tour package. It is possible to visit the caves under one's own steam though, usually by private vehicle. The turn-off is located along the road connecting Sukau to the main highway and is quite well signposted. Minivans plying the route between Sandakan and Sukau (RM20) can drop you off at the junction, but you'll have to walk the additional 5km to the park office.
Due to dwindling swiftlet bird populations, the caves are closed over certain periods, so check before planning your visit.
