Huddled beneath Le Méridien hotel, the northeast end of the market is a huge hawker centre where you can eat your way through the entire Malay gastronomy, while the fish-and-food market behind extends to the waterfront. Think row upon row of bog-eyed bream, tuna, tiger prawn and red snapper and everything in between… a rainbow of silver and pink scales; the oddly intoxicating scent of salt-water, death, blood and spices intensifying the closer you get to the water.