Ulaanbaatar’s official Shaman Centre is a ramshackle collection of squalid gers teetering on the slope that leads to Gandan Khiid. While not particularly mystifying at first sight, this is the real deal, with a bona fide shaman at its helm, holding daily court. The resident shaman, Zorigtbaatar, is known for his fiery orations that whip up the faithful into a frenzy. The main ger contains a smattering of icons, from a stuffed owl to bottles of vodka. If there is a ceremony going on, and you want your fortune told, you’ll need to make a small donation. If you want to see a ceremony, call ahead to confirm times.
If you find the centre closed (which happens when Zorigtbaatar is out of town) you can also see shamans in the open grass areas south of the Tuul Gol. This area is about 3km east of the Zaisan Memorial (you will spot the silk scarves tied to the poles on the right side of the road).
