The skyline of the neat little town of Dariganga – one of the few in Mongolia where the streets actually have names and numbers – is dominated by Altan Ovoo, a wide former crater topped by a stupa , which only men are allowed to visit. The stupa was built in 1990 on top of the ruins of the original Bat Tsagaan stupa, which was built in 1820 and destroyed in 1937. At the base of the flat-topped hill there are a couple of stupas that women are allowed to visit, and they do so with gusto, making copious offerings.
