Little of the history of Salay’s 103 ruins is known outside a small circle of Myanmar archaeologists working with limited funds. It is said that most of the monuments in Salay weren’t royally sponsored, but were built by the lower nobility or commoners, hence there’s nothing on the grand scale of Bagan’s biggest structures.
In the pagoda-filled area just east of Youqson Kyaung lies Paya Thonzu , a small trio of brick shrines with sikhara (Indian-style corncob-like temple finials) and some faded murals inside. The westernmost shrine (to the left when approaching from the museum) has the most visible murals and also a narrow set of stairs leading to a small terrace. If it’s locked, ask at Youqson Kyaung.
A more interesting feature is the modern makeover of the Bagan-era Shinpinsarkyo Paya (Temple 88), about 4 miles southwest of town via a dodgy road (and a couple of dodgy bridges). Inside the glass- and tile-filled pagoda is an original 13th-century wood Lokanat (Mahayana Bodhisattva guardian spirit).
The nearby northern entrance passageway features interesting 19th-century 3D murals (some are torture to see). Original woodcarvings abound, some of which are painted afresh in original design.
Another mile or so south of Shinpinsarkyo (most taxis won’t drive it, but it’s an easy 15-minute walk) is Temple 99 , an unassuming 13th-century shrine that features 578 painted Jataka scenes inside. The last 16 paintings on the left represent the ‘16 Dreams of King Kosala’.
