A narrow, foliage-cloaked canal winds through the reeds to the lakeside village of Inthein (also known as Indein). The Apocalypse Now ambience evaporates somewhat when you see the waiting tourist boats and souvenir stalls, but no matter – the pagodas on the hilltop are still incredibly atmospheric despite the crowds.
The first group of ruined stupas is immediately behind the village. Known as Nyaung Ohak , the crumbling stupas are choked in greenery but you can still discern some ornate stucco carvings of animals, devas and chinthe .
From Nyaung Ohak, a covered stairway climbs the hill, leading to Shwe Inn Thein Paya , a complex of 1054 weather-beaten zedi (stupas), most constructed in the 17th and 18th centuries. Some of the zedi lean at crazy angles while others have been reconstructed. From the pagoda, there are great views across the lake and valley. For even better views, there are two more ruined stupas on conical hills just north of the village, reached via a dirt path behind Nyaung Ohak. You could easily spend a few hours exploring the various ruins here.
Part of the five-day inshore circuit, the market at Inthein is one of the biggest and liveliest in the area.
