Situated just to the left of the road as you enter Myinkaba, Gubyaukgyi (Great Painted Cave Temple) sees a lot of visitors who are drawn by the well-preserved, richly coloured paintings inside. These are thought to date from the temple’s original construction in 1113, when Kyanzittha’s son Rajakumar built it following his father’s death. In Indian style, the monument consists of a large vestibule attached to a smaller antechamber.
The fine stuccowork on its exterior walls is in particularly good condition. Perforated, Pyu-style windows mean you’ll need a powerful torch to see the ceiling paintings clearly. If it’s locked during off-season, ask in the village for the keyholder.
Next to the monument stands the gilded Myazedi (Emerald Stupa). A four-sided pillar in a cage between the two monuments bears an inscription consecrating Gubyaukgyi and written in four languages – Pyu, Mon, Old Burmese and Pali. Its linguistic and historical significance is great, since it establishes the Pyu as an important cultural influence in early Bagan and relates the chronology of the Bagan kings as well as acting as a ‘Rosetta Stone’ to allow scholars to decypher the Pyu.
