From the foot of the Yankin Paya access stairway, backtrack 300yd towards Mandalay then turn north and go another 300yd north to find this modern monastery with its dazzlingly distinctive brassy stupa. Mya Kyauk is famed for its subterranean source of moderately alkaline mineral water, found by faith-led digging in 1998. The water supposedly ‘promotes IQ and ameliorates diabetes, constipation, gout and morning sickness’. The only way to try it is to first seek an audience with the head monk, Bhaddanta Khaymar Sarya, who may deign to give you a bottle of it. Before opening the bottle, try holding it up to the sunlight and play. If you hit on the right angle, the light projects an image reminiscent of the monastery stupa onto the back of the label. ‘Magic’, claim the locals. Or at least good bottle design.