Hpa-an is hemmed in by a wrinkled chain of limestone mountains. The tallest of these is Mt Zwegabin, about 7 miles south of town, which as well as being a respectable 2372ft is also a home of spirits and saintly souls.
It’s a demanding two-hour hike to the summit – up more steps than you’d care to count – but once at the top the rewards are staggering views, a small monastery and a stupa containing, yes, you guessed it, another hair from the Buddha. If you arrive at the top before noon you can take advantage of a complimentary lunch (rice, orange and tea) and the 11am monkey feeding – different primates, different menus.
