The part of the palace west of Nasal Chowk, overlooking the main Durbar Sq area, was constructed by the Ranas in the middle to late part of the 19th century. Ironically, it is now home to a museum that celebrates King Tribhuvan (r 1911–55) and his successful revolt against their regime, along with memorials to Kings Mahendra (1955–72) and Birendra (1972–2001).
Exhibits with names such as the ‘Royal Babyhood’ include some fascinating re- creations of the foppish king’s bedroom and study, with genuine personal effects that give quite an eerie insight into his life. Some of the exhibits, such as the king’s favourite stuffed bird (looking a bit worse for wear these days!), his boxing gloves, the walking stick with a spring-loaded sword hidden inside and his dusty, drained aquarium, add some surreal moments. There are several magnificent thrones, plenty of hunting photos and the obligatory coin collection.
Halfway through the museum you descend before ascending the steep stairways of the nine-storey Basantapur (Kathmandu) Tower (1770), which was extensively restored prior to King Birendra’s coronation. There are superb views over the palace and the city from the top. The struts along the facade of the Basantapur (Kathmandu) Tower, particularly those facing out to Basantapur Sq, are decorated with erotic carvings.
It’s hard not to rush through the second half of the museum, full of dull press clippings about the rather Peter Sellers–looking King Mahendra, before conveniently glossing over the massacre of King Birendra by his son in 2001. The museum exits into Lohan Chowk.
